Rolex 69173 Watches

Rolex 69173 Price

At Watch My Diamonds, Rolex 69173 watches range from $6,399 to $7,499 across 5 priced listings.

Rolex stopped making the 69173 in 1999, so each watch is priced on its own merits: whether the dial and hands are original, how much the case and the gold bezel have been polished, the state of the Jubilee bracelet, the service history, and whether the box and papers are present. Watches with diamonds set after they left Rolex are described as aftermarket on their product pages and priced on request.

For comparison, the current Lady-Datejust in yellow Rolesor, the 28 mm 279173, retails at $13,000 in the United States with a champagne dial on the Jubilee bracelet. That is the price on rolex.com, before tax, as of September 2026.

Rolex 69173 Specifications

Is the Rolex 69173 Real Gold?

Partly, and that is what yellow Rolesor means. The bezel, the crown and the center links of the bracelet are solid 18 kt yellow gold. The case, the case back and the outer links of the bracelet are stainless steel. The gold is solid, not plated, so it can be polished like the steel, but each polish removes a little of it.

How to Date a Rolex 69173 by Its Serial Number

The serial number is engraved on the case between the lugs at 6 o’clock, under the end of the bracelet. On watches made from 1987 it starts with a letter followed by six digits; earlier watches have a number only. Rolex never published official production dates, so the years below are the approximations used across the trade, and a watch could reach its first owner a year or so after the date its serial suggests.

Because a 69173 can be matched to a year this closely, it is a popular birth-year and anniversary gift. The year of each watch we have for sale is in its title, and our Rolex serial number lookup works for any other Rolex.

Can a 69173 Have a Diamond Bezel?

Not from Rolex. The reference 69173 stands for the fluted gold bezel: Rolex gave its factory diamond bezels different reference numbers. A 69173 with a diamond bezel therefore has an aftermarket bezel, set after the watch left Rolex. That is not a problem in itself, as long as the seller says so, and we say so on the product page of every such watch.

What to Check Before Buying a 69173

• The dial. Check that the dial and hands are original and match the watch’s age. The markings at 6 o’clock tell you the luminous material: “T SWISS T” or “SWISS T<25” means a tritium dial from before about 1998, and “SWISS” alone a Luminova dial from the last years of production. Many watches of this age were fitted with a replacement dial and hands during a Rolex service. That is not a sign of a fake, but collectors pay more for the original dial.
• The bezel. Look at the flutes from the side. Sharp ridges mean the gold has been polished little; rounded, shallow ridges mean it has been polished many times.
• The bracelet. Jubilee bracelets of this period loosen with wear, which collectors call stretch. Hold the watch by the case with the bracelet level: a noticeable sag means the pins and links are worn. Check too that the bracelet is a Rolex one with gold center links, since replacement bracelets are common on watches of this age.
• The serial number and papers. The serial should match the papers and fall within the 69173’s years of production, from a number-only serial up to the A series of 1999.
• Aftermarket diamonds. A diamond bezel or dial added after the watch left Rolex should be disclosed, with the diamonds described.
• The service history. The calibre 2135 is a robust movement, but a watch of this age should have been serviced. Ask when, and by whom.

Every watch we sell is inspected and authenticated in house before it ships.

Rolex 69173 FAQs

When was the Rolex 69173 made?

Rolex introduced the 69173 in the 1980s, after the calibre 2135 arrived in 1983, and made it until 1999. The 179173 replaced it around 2000.

How can I tell what year my Rolex 69173 is?

From the serial number between the lugs at 6 o’clock. A number with no letter means before 1987; after that, the letter gives the year, from R in 1987 to A in 1999. The table above lists every letter.

What movement is in the Rolex 69173?

The calibre 2135, Rolex’s self-winding chronometer movement for ladies’ watches from 1983 to 1999. It beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour, has 29 jewels, has about 42 hours of power reserve, and was the first ladies’ movement from Rolex with a quickset date.

What is the difference between the Rolex 69173 and the 69174?

Only the metal. The 69173 is yellow Rolesor, with yellow gold on the bezel, the crown and the bracelet center links. The 69174 is white Rolesor, with white gold on the bezel only. Both have the 26 mm case and the calibre 2135.

What size is the Rolex 69173?

The case is 26 mm across, without the crown. The current Lady-Datejust is 28 mm, and the midsize 68273 is 31 mm.

What replaced the Rolex 69173?

The 179173 around 2000, with the same 26 mm case and the calibre 2235, then the 28 mm 279173 in 2015, with the calibre 2236.