Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

Offering day, date, month, and week of the year all in its dial, the 41mm Audemar Piguet Royal Oak Prepetual Calendar comes in platinum, white gold colorways. Browse through the collection below where you can find classical looks combined with detailed indicators. Showย more

The AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is a masterpiece that combines two revolutionary elements of the brand’s legacy: the iconic Royal Oak design and its expertise in perpetual calendar mechanisms. This remarkable watch blends technical brilliance with esthetic refinement in a way few other manufacturers can achieve.

AP Design Progress Since 1984

The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar’s story began in 1984 with reference 5554 (later renamed 25554). It merged the revolutionary Royal Oak design with what was the world’s thinnest self-winding perpetual calendar movement at the time. The original piece measured 39mm in diameter and just 9.3mm thick. This groundbreaking timepiece stayed largely unchanged for three decades.

The model went through its first major update in 2015 with reference 26574 featuring Caliber 5134. The case size grew to 41mm while adding minimal thickness (9.5mm compared to the original 9.3mm). The updated movement added a state-of-the-art week-of-the-year display along the dial’s edge, shown by a central hand โ€“ a practical feature that boosted the watch’s appeal.

Audemars Piguet has introduced Caliber 7138, which features three patented mechanisms and a groundbreaking crown-only adjustment system. The new system removes the need for extra tools when setting calendar functions, making this complex timepiece more user-friendly for daily wear.

Iconic Case and Dial Esthetics

The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar’s visual identity stems from several distinctive design elements. Many models showcase the signature “Grande Tapisserie” pattern on the dial, a honeycomb-like texture that has become the Royal Oak’s hallmark. This detailed pattern creates a perfect backdrop for the calendar subdials that display day, date, month, leap year, and the astronomical moon phase.

Gerald Genta’s original octagonal bezel design with its exposed screws remains unchanged, keeping the Royal Oak’s unmistakable profile. The monocoque case, carved from a solid block of metal, was a masterpiece of precision and geometry when it first appeared. This construction method helped achieve the remarkable thinness of the original models โ€“ the 25554ST was only 7.5mm thick, barely 0.4mm more than the original Royal Oak Jumbo 5402.

The perpetual calendar layout creates perfect balance across the dial. Month indications sit at 12 o’clock, date at 3, moon phase at 6, and day at 9 o’clock. New models offer better legibility through refined color schemes and tone-on-tone subdials.

Material Options: Steel, Sand Gold, Ceramic, Platinum

The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar stands out with its range of available materials.ย Stainless steel versions are the most available and versatile options, offering tough durability with the signature Royal Oak look. Premium models come crafted in precious metals.ย Recent references include pieces in 18-carat sand gold โ€“ a unique alloy the brand introduced.ย Platinum versions represent peak luxury, often featuring exceptional dial treatments like the stunning green sunburst dial on reference 26598PT. The ceramic editions, launched in 2017, are particularly impressive.ย These models showcase Audemars Piguet's material expertise, with cases and bracelets that shift between mirror black and dark gray depending on the light.ย The ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar shows exceptional finishing that's challenging to achieve with this material. Openworked editions take visual appeal even further.ย They replace the solid dial with sapphire crystal to reveal the mechanical dance of the perpetual calendar mechanism.ย These skeletonized versions highlight Audemars Piguet's extraordinary level of finishing on all movement components.